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Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Siamese Snoozing : The Rachamankha, Chiang Mai

Pad Thai cooked up on a cart on every street corner,
Super friendly, smily, happy people,
Frosty Singha Beers,
Golden, sandy beaches,
Mango & sticky rice...

...these are just a few of my favourite things about Thailand. And now, I've got a brand new entry on the list, Chiang Mai boutique hotel, the Rachamankha.

From pretty much the second the plane wheels touched down on Hong Kong soil after our sister trip to NYC back in February, I was straight onto planning the next adventure. It is a truth universally acknowledged that the only way to get over an amazing holiday is to get straight on with booking the next. So, with that in mind and a nice little cushion of accumulated air miles, I decided that the best first step was to see where I could get for as close to nothing as possible, with bonus points if I'd never been before... A couple of minutes later we had a winner... Chiang Mai! 

Although I've been lucky enough to spend several amazing holidays in Thailand over the last five years, those trips generally tend to be beach breaks on an island or a hop across to the Big Mango (AKA Bangkok) for a weekend of bright lights and buckets. Somehow Chiang Mai hand't really been on my radar before, but suddenly a sunny city break with temples, markets and street food galore sounded like the perfect solution to the holiday blues. A couple of clicks later and I was on the Mr & Mrs Smith website, drooling over a handful of beautiful Chiang Mai boutique hotels. But the Rachmankha swiftly stole my heart as I swiped through the photo gallery and spied a white parasol flanked turquoise pool sitting in a terracotta-tiled courtyard. A couple of further clicks and my weekend was booked.

Cut to a month and a bit later, and another set of plane wheels were touching down following a brief flit through the clouds, this time on Thai soil. After whipping through passport control and customs, we flagged a cab driven by an uber-smiley man who had a laminated sign on the back of the driver's seat proudly letting us know that his nickname was 'Ricky' and as he was only just starting to learn English, he'd love to chat, but we'd have to speak slowly. Unfortunately, unless you were going to speak extremely fast, you wouldn't be able to get much past opening greetings given that the hotel is a super speedy mere ten minute drive from the airport. So saying goodbye to Ricky in a flurry of stilted guidebook Thai, we grabbed our bags, crunched up the gravel driveway and were greeted by the towering white pillars of our home for the next couple of days.


Check-in was incredibly painless, and quicker than you can say "Sawadee Ka", we were unlocking the heavy wooden door to our little room just off a grassy, candlelit courtyard.



Resisting the urge to bounce gleefully on that big bed, I set about exploring to find a pretty little alcove housing a spotlit rain shower which I promptly jumped straight into to wash the plane ride away and get ready to work up a thirst exploring the rest of the grounds. 



The hotel looks like a very old Thai building steeped in history but actually it was built from the ground in the last decade. A menagerie of stunning antiques and architectural echoes of the ancient heritage that lies in abundance just a few steps from the hotel's gates makes you feel as though you're staying in a perfectly restored old family villa.
  



Each corner yields something beautiful that you want to stop and stare at - a candlelit reading nook here, a huge urn of creamy orchids there...




A set of heavy wooden doors leading to a tasselled-chandelier-lit bathroom...


...lined with some of the most jaw-droopingly awesome tiles I've ever clapped eyes on...



And then we stumbled across the jewel in the Rachamankha crown, a pool so pretty that you can't help but kick your flip flops off and dangle your feet in.




By now, it was well and truly gin and tonic o'clock, so we headed to the hotel's courtyard restaurant where the white cloths were just being shaken out and topped with flowers and flickering night lights. 







The cosy bar space looks out over the courtyard and is the perfect spot for a little art gazing with a nice side of gin sipping.



Post-tipples, we toppled out of the bar and made our way out into the Chiang Mai night in search of cocktails and Thai curries. But that's a post for another day, so we'll skip straight to the morning after the night before where there was lots of very strong coffee...



Followed by several rounds of toast and jam, heaps of fruit, great troughs of granola and a particularly awesome stack of Cinnamon French Toast drenched in syrup.  


What followed was a couple of very lazy, languid days stretched out by the pool, reading books, drinking icy cold beers and cooling off in that gem of a pool interspersed with a smattering of wandering gazing up at towering temples while grazing on Thai street treats.







I will follow this up with a post on where we ate, drank, shopped and wandered when I next get the craving for a little holiday reminiscing...

On Sunday afternoon we had a little mosey around the hotel's museum which is jam-packed with very old, very beautiful things, before settling down for some goodbye tea and cake in the pretty little dining room. Stuffed to bursting with cake and culture, we waved a forlorn farewell.


After such an amazing weekend, as those plane wheels touched down on the tarmac at Chek Lap Kok, I scrambled to switch on my iPhone and was pretty much straight onto Skyscanner. So, that probably explains why, as you read this, I'm currently lying under a palm tree reading a very good book on a beach in Lombok...

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

3BM Wanders: A Weekend in Bangkok

One of the really, really great things about living in Hong Kong is how easy it is to hop off for a weekend of sun and exploring. While I miss zipping under the Channel on the Eurostar to Paris for a couple of days of Macarons and browsing boutiques in the Marais or Easyjetting it down to Barcelona for Gaudi gazing and Churros and chocolate, there's something pretty great about having Thailand and Vietnam, Cambodia and China, and the Philippines and Borneo right on your doorstep...   

So a couple of weeks ago I decided it was time to kick off this year's adventuring with a last minute weekend in Bangkok. 

Given that it's just a short two hour flight from Hong Kong, I've spent quite a lot of time in Bangkok but it's without a doubt one of my favourite cities in Asia. I've blogged before about my favourite places to stay in the Thai capital, and this time I decided to head back to the Metropolitan not least because we got a room rate that came in at under HK$1,000 a night (and we got an upgrade when we checked-in - win, win).

After touching down in Bangkok at midnight on Friday evening and the best night's sleep ever in the biggest, comfiest bed, we got up bright and early, gobbled down a big breakfast and headed out for a day of wandering.

First up, Chatuchak Weekend Market where they sell everything and anything you could ever imagine...
















All that bartering over bargains is thirsty work so we stopped for a couple of Singhas at an awesome little bar in section 8 of the market, Viva 8. It may not be the most authentically Thai place in the market, but with great music and Chef Fernando cooking up huge vats of Paella it's the perfect pit stop and the ideal perch for a bit of people watching.


Suitably refuelled, it was back to shopping up a storm...




















An hour or two later, we decided it was time for a couple of cocktails in the sun so we grabbed a cab and moseyed across town to Soi 11 where there are windy streets to wend down and a whole host of fun bars and restaurants to hit up. 





A passionfruit margarita or two later, we thought we'd go and check out the pool at the newish W Bangkok and it was only fair to see if the cocktails were any good while we were there...





As the sun slunk towards the horizon, we dashed home for a quick change before heading out for an evening of bar hopping. First up The Iron Fairies - push back the heavy velvet curtains at the door and you'll find yourself in a very cool cocktail bar come blacksmith's workshop. Jazz burbles away in the background and steel spiral staircases wind up to a mezzanine leather strewn with leather armchairs to sink into which you order up delicious liquor-laden cocncoctions.





Feeling pretty famished, our next stop was Soul Food for some of the best Thai food I've had in a very long time. Despite being an expat favourite this cosy spot is renowned for dishing up authentic, lipspackingly good Thai fare. Each and every dish that we ordered was a delight from the spicy Southern Thai samosas to the Yam Makrua Yao - the most delicious salad ever invented - a medley of charred smoky eggplant, bacon, mint, coriander and soft-boiled duck eggs. Be sure to wash down your feast with a few too many cocktails, we particularly loved the Mojito-esque Bangkok Bastard.



Stuffed to bursting, we headed for post-dinner tipples at rooftop bar Above Eleven where we sipped a couple of cocktails while looking out across the twinkling city.



And last but not least, we headed for nightcaps at sister bar to the Iron Fairies, Maggie Choo's. Don't be fooled by this night spot's rather strange location at the base of the Novotel Hotel. Slink past the neon sign at the entrance, down the wooden staircase where you'll find yourself in a little noodle bar where the overalled waitresses dish up steaming bowls of noodles beneath a paper parasol festooned ceiling. Pull back the heavy velvet curtains (spotting a theme here?) and find yourself transported back to the forties and apparently in a bank vault slash speakeasy... 

Girls in cheongsams sip martinis on swings, others peek out behind fringed curtains atop the bar - a clerk counter where the barmen shake up cocktails behind brass bars. Entertainment comes courtesy of live jazz played by a band gathered around the grand piano in front of which a band of uniformed midgets dances. The most coveted tables sit in shadowy alcoves behind heavy doors hung from exposed brick archways crowned by glaring busts of Queen Victoria. As it was a packed to the rafters Saturday night we had to resign ourselves to sipping our Champagne cocktails while propping up the bar and left a couple of hours later more than a little tipsy.








The morning after the night before, there was nothing for it but to snooze off the evening's excesses beside the pool while catching up on some very important reading...


...interspersed between leisurely laps of the pool...


...and a spot of Satay nibbling.


All in all, the perfect weekend break. I landed back in Hong Kong that evening happy, rested and staving off the host-holiday blues by plotting my next adventure...

The 3BM Bangkok Little Black Book

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