Siamese Snoozing : The Rachamankha, Chiang Mai

Pad Thai cooked up on a cart on every street corner,

Super friendly, smily, happy people,

Frosty Singha Beers,

Golden, sandy beaches,

Mango & sticky rice...

...these are just a few of my favourite things about Thailand. And now, I've got a brand new entry on the list, Chiang Mai boutique hotel, the Rachamankha.

From pretty much the second the plane wheels touched down on Hong Kong soil after our sister trip to NYC back in February, I was straight onto planning the next adventure. It is a truth universally acknowledged that the only way to get over an amazing holiday is to get straight on with booking the next. So, with that in mind and a nice little cushion of accumulated air miles, I decided that the best first step was to see where I could get for as close to nothing as possible, with bonus points if I'd never been before... A couple of minutes later we had a winner... Chiang Mai! 

Although I've been lucky enough to spend several amazing holidays in Thailand over the last five years, those trips generally tend to be beach breaks on an island or a hop across to the Big Mango (AKA Bangkok) for a weekend of bright lights and buckets. Somehow Chiang Mai hand't really been on my radar before, but suddenly a sunny city break with temples, markets and street food galore sounded like the perfect solution to the holiday blues. A couple of clicks later and I was on the Mr & Mrs Smith website, drooling over a handful of beautiful Chiang Mai boutique hotels. But the Rachmankha swiftly stole my heart as I swiped through the photo gallery and spied a white parasol flanked turquoise pool sitting in a terracotta-tiled courtyard. A couple of further clicks and my weekend was booked.

Cut to a month and a bit later, and another set of plane wheels were touching down following a brief flit through the clouds, this time on Thai soil. After whipping through passport control and customs, we flagged a cab driven by an uber-smiley man who had a laminated sign on the back of the driver's seat proudly letting us know that his nickname was 'Ricky' and as he was only just starting to learn English, he'd love to chat, but we'd have to speak slowly. Unfortunately, unless you were going to speak extremely fast, you wouldn't be able to get much past opening greetings given that the hotel is a super speedy mere ten minute drive from the airport. So saying goodbye to Ricky in a flurry of stilted guidebook Thai, we grabbed our bags, crunched up the gravel driveway and were greeted by the towering white pillars of our home for the next couple of days.

Check-in was incredibly painless, and quicker than you can say "Sawadee Ka", we were unlocking the heavy wooden door to our little room just off a grassy, candlelit courtyard.

Resisting the urge to bounce gleefully on that big bed, I set about exploring to find a pretty little alcove housing a spotlit rain shower which I promptly jumped straight into to wash the plane ride away and get ready to work up a thirst exploring the rest of the grounds. 

The hotel looks like a very old Thai building steeped in history but actually it was built from the ground in the last decade. A menagerie of stunning antiques and architectural echoes of the ancient heritage that lies in abundance just a few steps from the hotel's gates makes you feel as though you're staying in a perfectly restored old family villa.
  

Each corner yields something beautiful that you want to stop and stare at - a candlelit reading nook here, a huge urn of creamy orchids there...

A set of heavy wooden doors leading to a tasselled-chandelier-lit bathroom...

...lined with some of the most jaw-droopingly awesome tiles I've ever clapped eyes on...

And then we stumbled across the jewel in the Rachamankha crown, a pool so pretty that you can't help but kick your flip flops off and dangle your feet in.

By now, it was well and truly gin and tonic o'clock, so we headed to the hotel's courtyard restaurant where the white cloths were just being shaken out and topped with flowers and flickering night lights. 

The cosy bar space looks out over the courtyard and is the perfect spot for a little art gazing with a nice side of gin sipping.

Post-tipples, we toppled out of the bar and made our way out into the Chiang Mai night in search of cocktails and Thai curries. But that's a post for another day, so we'll skip straight to the morning after the night before where there was lots of very strong coffee...

Followed by several rounds of toast and jam, heaps of fruit, great troughs of granola and a particularly awesome stack of Cinnamon French Toast drenched in syrup.  

What followed was a couple of very lazy, languid days stretched out by the pool, reading books, drinking icy cold beers and cooling off in that gem of a pool interspersed with a smattering of wandering gazing up at towering temples while grazing on Thai street treats.

I will follow this up with a post on where we ate, drank, shopped and wandered when I next get the craving for a little holiday reminiscing...

On Sunday afternoon we had a little mosey around the hotel's museum which is jam-packed with very old, very beautiful things, before settling down for some goodbye tea and cake in the pretty little dining room. Stuffed to bursting with cake and culture, we waved a forlorn farewell.

After such an amazing weekend, as those plane wheels touched down on the tarmac at Chek Lap Kok, I scrambled to switch on my iPhone and was pretty much straight onto Skyscanner. So, that probably explains why, as you read this, I'm currently lying under a palm tree reading a very good book on a beach in Lombok...

Paint Your Life Happy : Mr & Mrs Smith At Home...

When you hear the words ‘Mr & Mrs Smith’ uttered what's the first thing you think of?

Noooooo, think again!

And this time think luxury, escapism and adventure…

Yes! That’s more like it!

We're talking, Mr & Mrs Smith - the luxury travel and globe-trotting hotel experts who hand-pick the best boutique hotels the world has to offer. This year HK Mouse zipped over to Fiji to do a little Mr & Mrs Smith hotel review but for as long as we can remember, us Mice have used the site to plan and book our trips and even if we're not off on holiday, the Smith website is without doubt one of our top happy places. If we’re feeling blue and in need of an instant pick-me-up that’s where we go. We can take ourselves off to the Maldives in a flash, to Bali in the blink of an eye and to NYC in a New York minute!

So clearly when it comes to the crème de la crème of holiday hot spots, Mr & Mrs Smith have it nailed. But this week we've discovered they’re far from a one trick pony... Had a ridiculously amazing holiday and want to bring a bit of the Smith magic back home with you? Well now you can... Mr & Mrs Smith have recently branched out into the world of interiors, specifically paint! So now with just a flick of your paintbrush you can add a dash of boutique chic to your bedroom, your living room, your hallway… you get the picture...

Colour & Paint have collaborated with the brand to launch the new Mr and Mrs Smith – At Home paint range. Inspired by 10 years of travel, the collection is made up of 28 shades housed under three palette categories – City, Country and Coast. Designed to suit both traditional and modern interiors, each sub-category boasts colours that lend themselves to that particular theme. Neat huh?!

So the Coastal collection is based on the world’s oceans and seaside spirit – think tranquil, neutral and calming…

The Country palette is geared towards the raw and rustic countryside and house pastel and earthy tones…

Last but not least, the City category is all about chic, sleek and sexy shades reminiscent of architecture and the city landscape…

So now all you need to do is decide which colour suits you and your home?

Are you after a rough-around-the-edges Moroccan vibe, a Cornish windswept, seasalty look or is hot child in the city more your bag?! Well the duo have even thought of a way to help with your selection dilemmas – let me introduce the iPatch - brand new, innovative technology which allows you to test A4 sized patches straight onto your walls and peel them off again, without leaving any trace of paint behind. Genius!

iPatches cost £2 each and the Mr & Mrs Smith At Home paint is available via the Colour & Paint website (sadly in the UK and Northern Ireland only at the moment) and retails at £33 for 2.5 litres. Get them whilst they're hot!

Mr & Mrs Smith Review: Qamea Resort & Spa Fiji

HK Mouse zipped over to Fiji a few weeks ago where she stayed at island paradise, Qamea Resort & Spa, on a Mr & Mrs Smith reviewing mission. Here's the full write-up...

A good snooze can cure a whole suitcase full of ills. It can wipe out the stresses of a week of pre-holiday desk clearing; ease the exhaustion of twelve hours of long haul travel and even alleviate a bout of teeny-tiny-propeller-plane-induced air-sickness.

Luckily Qamea Resort & Spa is well aware of the power of the snooze and more importantly, that one snooze doesn’t fit all. From the moment Mr Smith and I step from the nine-seater Sea Otter which zips us from Fiji’s capital, Nadi, to a hop, skip, and a short boat ride from the white shores of Qamea island, everyone’s main priority is to get us horizontal.

As there’s no check-in desk to contend with, we’re whisked from boat to beachside bure in thirty seconds flat. Plane drained, I immediately eye the big four-poster bed, which, with it’s Princess & the Pea-style mattress, has five-star snooze written all over it. Our mind-reading, welcoming committee has other plans for us though. Quicker than you can say forty winks, I’m bundled into the oceanview hammock strung from our Bure porch for a shady snooze while Mr Smith is ushered for a sun-dappled nap atop a lounger perfectly positioned a short tumble from our very own personal stretch of the shore.

Several dozen blissful snores later, we’re gently roused from our respective siesta spots by the distant rumble of drums. As the drums echo the sound that our sleepy stomachs make, we’re delighted to discover that drums mean lunch.

Cheery shouts of “Bula! Mr & Mrs Smith” greet us as we amble towards a crew of smiling staff who engulf us in a flurry of hugs as though we’re long lost friends. But we’re the ones grinning as we’re presented with dishes of smoked marlin sushi rolls swiftly followed by lime-dressed fillets of fish pulled fresh from the sea that morning by the fisherman from the local village.

Food inhaled in record time, we’re just scoping out post-lunch snooze spots when a couple clutching snorkels and flippers ask if we’re joining the guided reef tour. A glance out at the turquoise waves is enough to erase all lazy, sleep-soaked thoughts and have us into the dive shop and getting kitted out ready for an afternoon of finding Nemo.

We board a little speedboat and zip five minutes from the resort before drawing to a juddering halt. I glance worriedly at the motor assuming we must be having boat trouble just in time to spy Mr Smith gleefully plunging overboard. As I’m assured that this is our destination, I dive from the boat and am submerged into a picture book perfect underwater world where crayon-bright shoals of fish dart inches from my mask. It soon becomes apparent that a short glide from Qamea’s shores lie some of the most pristine reefs we’ve ever seen. 

Once we’re all snorkeled out, we cruise back to shore just as an ominous looking bank of grey clouds scud across the sky and blot out the sun. We decide that there’s nothing for it but to dodge the marble sized raindrops and dart to the shelter of the Jungle spa that nestles in the lush green treetops overlooking the island. Hopping onto a pair of massage beds we’ve soon drifted into angel-fish filled dreams as every last aeroplane-induced knot is massaged away.  

We emerge an hour later to discover that the palm trees have had a good drink, the storm has passed and the sun is slinking through an amber and scarlet smudged sky towards the horizon. Time to dart back to the Bure and scrub up under the outdoor shower before heading off to seek out the first round of sundowners of our stay.

Luckily over in the bar Qamea’s resident mixologist, William, Hibiscus flower tucked behind his ear, cocktail shaker in hand, is whipping up a round of frothy coconut cocktails generously laced with rum. A chorus of “Bula! Mr & Mrs Smith” goes up and a handful of guests lounging on sofas chatting to one another look up and wave. The atmosphere is much more friendly guesthouse than stuffy hotel and before long we’re recounting tales of starfish spotting and seashell massages to a group of fellow travellers.

After a couple of rounds of rum, the dinner drums herald suppertime and we gradually peel off, couple by couple, to feast by candlelight on coconut lobster wrapped in banana leaves and roasted fillet of beef with honey glazed potatoes. While we devour every last scrap of dessert – an ambrosial pineapple and ginger crumble - a local band strikes up in the bar area and a cluster of guests gather beside them in a circle around a large bowl of murky-looking liquid.  When William informs us the liquid is Cava, I look at him with ill-disguised mistrust – there’s not a bubble in sight and it’s being downed from a half coconut shell rather than sipped from a flute – I’m no fool. But it turns out I am. This is Kava, Fiji’s national drink. Made from the ground roots of the Yaqona plant, we’re told Kava tastes like bitter, peppery, mud and makes your mouth numb. On the plus side, it relaxes you to Hakuna Matata point and makes you sleep like a baby with none of the hangover ill-effects of rum. We’re sold.

A couple of Kavas down, we weave a little tipsily, hand in hand, along the moonlit shore back to our Bure where we’re soothed into a deep slumber by a lullaby of crashing waves and chirruping cicadas.

As promised, the next morning, as the sun peeks over the palm trees, we spring straight out of bed with clear heads ready to take on a morning of diving with reef sharks and an afternoon of swimming under cascading, liquid diamond waterfalls.

The rest of our idyllic stay passes in a languid blur of mornings swimming in the impossibly blue surf in search of the resident Daddy Lionfish and the piano sunken just offshore followed by sun-soaked afternoons lazing on deserted stretches of perfect white sand.

When the time comes to sorrowfully pack our cases and head back on the speedboat, we’re garlanded with leis and waved off by the entire staff who stand singing on the beach until they’re nothing more than tiny dots. Just as Mr Smith insists that his eyes are watering because of the ocean breeze, a giant sea turtle lazily pops his head up right next to the boat. Looking a few Kavas worse for wear, he gives us a sanguine look before disappearing back to the indigo depths below.

The perfect farewell to our trip of trips - a patchwork of jewel-toned tropical adventures stitched together with snoozes.

Rooms at Qamea Resort & Spa start at US$550 per night.
We flew direct from Hong Kong to Fiji's capital, Nadi with Fiji Airways and from Nandi to Viti Levu with Pacific Air.

3BM in Sri Lanka : Tangalle

Over the last few weeks we've finally got round to blogging about the Sri Lankan adventure we embarked on back in January... We've filled you in on all the details of shopping in Colombo, cocktails in Galle and leopard spotting in Yala... Next stop on our Sri Lankan itinerary was a final few days of total relaxation at the stunning Maya in Tangalle - a charming colonial manor house. From the moment we arrived we knew we'd found boutique heaven! 

We were whisked off immediately to our room with a view - a very welcome base for the next 5 nights - a bit of a steep change from the camping lifestyle we'd become accustomed to during our safari stint! Maya blends the old with the new - an original 19th century manor house fused with a new wing boasting sleek style and design. Our room was in the traditional part of the house, overlooking the pool area - we had a quick peek at some of the other rooms and we think it was by far the best of the 5 suites within the hotel! Every detail was perfect - a gorgeous four-poster bed stood proud in the centre of the room draped in a pretty mosquito net, then there was a bathroom 'bigger than the Blue Banana' (that fabulously famous quote from Pretty Woman...!) and last but not least, lots of lovely design elements like the beautiful black and white Sri Lankan photography adorning the walls. The first thing that struck us all though was the ever-present waft of cinnamon notes lingering in the air - it's all the little touches that make somewhere so special.

After settling in and unpacking our holiday wardrobes, we headed out to the pool area for a much deserved cocktail and late lunch. First thing to note is the surroundings and settings of Maya. Nestled within two-acres of stunning garden, overlooking a spectacular rice paddy field we were treated to miles of uninterrupted tranquil views coupled with the distant sound of peacocks and exotic birds chirping away. 

With a delightful daiquiri in hand we order up a Sri Lankan curry banquet fit to feed five thousand and devoured every last scrap! With bulging bikini bodies we waddled over to the shimmering L shaped pool and spent the afternoon basking in the sizzling sun keeping ourselves hydrated with ice cold fresh lime and sodas expertly made by the kind staff. 

The food at Maya is totally knock out. While guests aren't showered with choice when it comes to breakfast, lunch and dinner, the options are minimal, fresh and locally sourced meaning that only the very best is served up. This was an aspect of Maya that I really liked because it took the task of having to pick from a whole host of dishes away and in turn minimised the risk of that dreaded food envy you all know I have! I was never once disappointed with the food but a few dishes did stand out including the scrumptious Sri Lankan favourite, egg hoppers for breakfast, a mouthwatering watermelon, chicken and bacon salad and a pudding of dreams consisting of caramalised bananas and ice cream!

Every aspect of life at Maya is tailored to your needs. The staff are discrete but always there in a flash when you need them. There are also little bells dotted around the place so in the rare case that there isn't somebody nearby to attend to your every need all you have to do is give them a gentle buzz! Every meal kicks off with a choice of where and when. If you're feeling social they'll set your table in the communal dining area but if not they'll find a secret, secluded spot just for you.

We didn't actually leave our Maya happy place once during our stay, that's how heavenly it was! I guarantee that within the four walls of Maya you won't want for anything or get even slight itchy feet but if you wanted a little excursion to explore a bit of the surrounding area you could grab yourself a hotel bicycle and head to the nearby ancient village, Aranwella or pedal to Mulgirigala Rock, a Buddist temple closeby. If culture and cycling sound a bit too much hard work, alternatively you could head to the Southern coast to spend the day on nearby beaches - Mawella, Palm Paradise and Seenimodara - all of which are apparently the best of the best and are rumoured to be super for surfing. Last but not least, you're close enough to the shores of Mirissa for a spot of whale watching - we did this earlier in the holiday, see our experience here.

All explored out after our three other action-packed stops, we mostly did this...

With only a handful of rooms, the hotel is never going to be seething with people fighting over sunbeds or waiting to be served that all important poolside G&T. We were lucky enough to only have one other family staying in the hotel at the same time as us which meant that we pretty much felt like we were staying at a private villa. A private villa complete with attentive staff, cooks and waiters falling over themselves to make sure we were happy, relaxed and constantly fed and hydrated (cocktails count as hydration right?!) Having been spoiled to that kind of one-to-one treatment during our stay, I can't help but think that things might feel slightly crowded when the hotel is at full capacity - but that's probably just us being spoilt Mice!

In summary Maya is all about pure relaxation and luxury. If like us, you love sunbathing, eating, drinking and reading, look no further! Maya also offers the perfect spot for sunset G&T's...

In my opinion it doesn't get much better than this! The perfect end to the perfect holiday. We're already plotting Sri Lankan adventure number two....