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Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Monday, 22 September 2014

Framura & Cinque Terre

How on earth is it Monday again already?! 

But, if there's one thing guaranteed to lift our lacklustre Monday moods, it's a little bit of holiday daydreaming. So, we thought we'd kick off the week with a travel post. Here's part II of my Italian summer adventures - a week in Framura, a little Ligurian village nestled midway between the Cinque Terre and Portofino.

After the most magical Tuscan wedding, we waved goodbye to the wedding crew and hopped into our hire car to zip across Tuscany and hit the coast for a bit of recuperation.   To break up the journey, we decided to stop at Lucca for a wander and a lazy lunch.









Suitably stuffed full of salami and spaghetti, we jumped back in our Fiat 500 and headed up the coast to our home for the next few days. Having been bitten by the Airbnb bug back in June when we played country bumpkins for the weekend in a barn conversion in Somerset, we decided to give the bland chain hotels and dated B&Bs a miss and instead booked an Airbnb in Framura. Best decision ever! 

Perched at the top of a wiggly, windy road with incredible views out across the water, our apartment was a two bed, two bathroom home away from home. The whole flat was beautifully decorated and super bright and airy with a sun-dappled garden at the back and a huge terrace overlooking the sea at the front. In the weeks leading up to our arrival, our lovely host, Elena emailed us with details of anything and everything we could possibly need to know about the apartment from wifi codes to where to eat, how to find the apartment to the best secret beaches nearby. We arrived and were greeted by Elena's friend who handed over the keys, gave us a mini tour and then left us to dash around exploring our new pad...














Pretty wiped out after three days of wedding celebrations, we decided that we would cook in that night, so off I pottered to the village and the most incredible corner shop ever, where I stocked up on Ciabatta, olives, mozzarella and parma ham as well as all the ingredients for a monster prawn and pesto risotto.

I got home just in time for a couple of sunset glasses of rose and a little grazing on my corner shop spoils before rolling up my sleeves, donning my apron and cooking up a storm.


We ate curled up on the sofa in front of the Big Lebowski (luckily the apartment came fully stocked with enough DVDs, CDs and games to keep even the most ADD child entertained) and within seconds of scraping our dishes clean, we were both yawning and heavy-lidded, ready for a huge sleep.

The next few days passed in a happy, sunny blur of blue skies and too much pasta. We mixed mornings baking out on the terrace drinking coffee and reading magazines with afternoons exploring and even a couple of gelato-burningly energetic walks. 



But, on our first day, after the large Limoncello consumption at the wedding, we decided that it was probably wise to while away the day at Monterosso al Mare lying under an orange and green striped sun umbrella with nothing more stressful on the agenda than kindle reading and deciding where to eat lunch. Total bliss!






In fact, it was so perfect that the next day we decided to seek out another beach for yet more snoozy sunning. Two days of lying supine meant that by day three we were ready to take on the challenge of walking the Cinque Terre - an eight mile hike along the coastal pathway that takes you from village to village. We set off bright and early in an attempt to dodge the hottest part of the day and were rewarded with a relatively deserted trail and some stunning photo ops.








By the time we arrived at the final of the five villages, Riomaggiore, we were ravenous so headed straight to a shady cliffside restaurant where we descended on a huge Italian feast washed down with a few glasses of very well-deserved rose. After lunch we wandered down to the harbour where we spied a man renting out speedboats which seemed a pretty perfect way to round off the afternoon. So, before you could say 'anchors away' we were puttering out of the harbour on a little dinghy heading for a quiet cove along the coast where we bobbed for a couple of hours of swimming and sunsoaking.




On our final day, we woke up to grey skies so decided to scrap the beach day we'd planned and instead hopped in the Fiat 500 and whizzed up the motorway to Portofino for a day of wandering, people watching and deciding which of the mega yachts we'll buy when we make our millions.





When cocktail o'clock rolled around we strolled up the hill to the Hotel Splendido for a few rounds of bellinis and negronis with the most beautiful backdrop.




And then, it was time to pack up our cases, bid a tearful goodbye to gorgeous Framura and head back to Pisa to fly home. But, even as I dragged my case to the car, I was sure that I'd be back before long, so today, on this dull Monday, perhaps it's time to hop over to Skyscanner and take a look at flights to Pisa next summer...


Wednesday, 10 September 2014

A Wedding Under the Tuscan Sun

After the London Mice filled you in on their French adventures last week, I thought it was probably about time that I got myself into gear and reported back on my European summer hols - ten days eating my way around Tuscany and the Cinque Terre in Italy. AKA heaven!

First up, part I - a long weekend in Radda in Chianti, Tuscany for mountains of pasta, lots of swooning over rolling vine-studded hills and the wedding of two of our very favourite people in Hong Kong - Miles & Emma.  



On the last Friday in June, we hopped aboard an orange-tailed easyJet in London, and a couple of hours later found ourselves staring up at this wonky wonder of the world...


After watching a never ending stream of tourists staging comedy holding up the leaning tower photos, we hopped in our hire car and headed off towards the Tuscan hills and our home for the next couple of nights - Villa Vistarenni.


The 17th Century Villa Vistarenni nestles on the hillside above the village of Radda in Chianti about 40 km South of Florence. From Pisa, we zoomed down the Autostrade refuelling at the side of the road with the chicest and most delicious service station snacks we've ever had - San Pellegrino and a mozzarella and Parma ham stuffed ciabatta - Little Chef eat your heart out. 

When we rounded a windy country lane bend and spied Villa Vistarenni, its dazzling white facade sitting in stark contrast to the emerald fields bordering it, at last we felt like our holiday had started. We pulled up in front of the Villa in a squeal of hire car tyres and an arc of gravel before hauling our cases out of the boot and demanding a couple of travel-exhaustion erasing shots of Limoncello.  We had a sun-dappled room in Chiara, the 16th Century farmhouse set just next to the villa a stone's throw from the swimming pool and a hop skip and a tumble from the centre of all the wedding action.

By the time we arrived, we had just enough time for a flurry of hellos, a quick dip in the pool and a very speedy outfit change before heading up to the village to join the bride and groom for pizza and Prosecco at Ristorante La Loggia.


Although we did try to be on our very best behaviour and save ourselves for the big day on Saturday, that deadly combo of all your favourite people in one room and a river of Prosecco meant that it was midnight far too quickly and we'd all done a gun punch or two too many...




Luckily, as Saturday dawned bight and clear with cornflower blue skies and not a cloud in sight, the boys had a carb-heavy lunch to cure their hangovers while us girls zipped down to Emma's family home for Mimosas and a bounteous spread guaranteed to have even the most jaded of party girls back on their feet quicker than you can say brunch bunch.


Pastries inhaled and fuzzy head busting cocktails downed, it was time to shimmy into our wedding outfits and get ready for the main event. 



We then stumbled arm in arm along the gravel driveway, trying to stay upright on our spindly stilettos while dodging from patch of shade to patch of shade on our way back down to Emma's family house for the ceremony.



After the ceremony, we rehydrated with miniature bottle of Prosecco before heading back up the hill to Villa Vistarenni for canapés and Aperol spritzes. 

But not before stealing a few snaps of the brand new Mr & Mrs Dickinson. 


Emma looked jaw-droppingly beautiful in her Monique L'Hullier dress with vintage diamond necklace and a bouquet of peonies.






Back up at the Villa, the party was in full swing and as if by magic, two trestle tables overlooking the vineyards had appeared decorated with ropes of of olive leaves and roses.










The newlyweds arrived and there was just time for a couple more pre-dinner drinks before it was time to seek out our seats at the dinner table.








As the sun slunk below the horizon we tucked into pea and prawn risotto, heart-shaped ravioli (quite possibly the most delicious things I've ever eaten), melt in your mouth beef and little pots of tiramisu all washed down with copious amounts of Italian wine.







Each course was interspersed with speeches and toasts and everyone agreed it was one of the loveliest weddings they'd ever been to.

Just as we thought the evening couldn't get any better, a burst of silver illuminated the velvety calm of the inky black night and we all gazed up open-mouthed as a stunning firework display lit up the sky.






Dancing, a barrage of shots and a dessert buffet followed but as that's all still a little on the hazy side, we'll cut to the next day as I prised open my eyes to spy Emma's bouquet in the corner of the room sat atop a tangle of discarded Issa. As vague memories drifted back to me of elbowing every other girl on the dance floor out of the way to snatch the bouquet for myself, I decided it was time to drag my Limoncello-soaked self out of bed and go in search of strong coffee. 

We spent the day lazing by the pool, keeping hydrated with bottle after bottle of icy rosé and keeping entertained by retelling stories of high jinx from the night before.




Sun-baked and tipping over into tipsy, we retired to our rooms for afternoon naps before heading out for a final feast together in Radda at the beyond awesome Le Forchette del Chianti where we inhaled bowls of fresh black truffle tagliatelle and pappardelle with wild boar ragu. 


Waistband-bustingly full and incredibly happy after a beyond wonderful weekend, it was time to head off on the second part of our Italian adventure, which is another story, for another day...